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North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Alberta, North Face

Mount Alberta, North Face. In mid September Kit Lewis and I made the second ascent of the north face of Mount Alberta. We spent a day walking from the Banff-Jasper highway over the Woolley shoulder to the northeast shoulder of Alberta. We spent the next day descending to the glacier below the north face and climbing up the lower ice face to the bottom of the rock band. Since a heavy snowstorm the previous week had left the rock band covered with new snow, we made slow progress. We spent our first night only a few pitches up the rock below an overhang which blocks easy passage into the prominent chimney fifty feet above. We spent our next bivouac on the pedestal several pitches higher. We spent our fourth night on the summit and descended the Japanese route the next day. We followed the original route first climbed by George Lowe and Jock Glidden in 1972 (A.A.J., 1973 page 314). Due to conditions we spent an extra day on the peak over the first-ascent party, making it five days on the peak.

Steven Swenson