American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Sir Douglas, Northeast Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Mount Sir Douglas, Northeast Face, British Military Group, Rocky Mountains. On September 13 and 14 we made the first ascent of the northeast face of Mount Sir Douglas. We started up the right side of a triangular icefield that lies in the left part of the face. Zigzagging to get past séracs and crevasses, we went to the right side of the top of the icefield and up left along the system of snow ramps to the beginning of a deep chimney. From there, two pitches of steep ice to the bottom of the chimney led to overhanging rocks. We went through the overhang from the right (F7, the crux) and then up the chimney, which became less steep and formed a gully. After two pitches we left the gully to the right and climbed on rock and finally on ice to the point where the east ridge ends just below the summit. We climbed for 20 hours on the two days. (NCCSIV, F7.)

Kazimierz GLazek and L. Wozniak, Wroclaw, Poland

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