American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Sunset Slabs

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Sunset Slabs. In January and February, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, and I made the first ascents of some fine routes on this remote rock. The rock is located on the south side of Bear Peak just northwest of the Devil’s Thumb. The extremely long and difficult approach (over 3 miles and 3000-foot elevation gain) has kept climbers away. Approach via the Shadow Canyon trail. Beginning on the left side of the crag is a three-pitch left-facing dihedral (II, F7) called the Wind Song Dihedral. The next crack system to the right, Three’s a Crowd (III, F9) is a fine four-pitch route. The next series of routes are downhill and right about 300 feet. Many short routes are located here. This area is similar in quality to the West Ridge in Eldorado. Of the routes done I have listed the finer ones. AC-DC (I, F9); Home Run (I, F9); Fine Line (I, F9); Insane (I, F8); Sane (I, F7); Fingers (I, F10); Danas Mosaid (I, F7); Valentine (I, F8); and the extremely classic Lathe of Heaven (II, F8). An obvious dihedral called D1 was done by Dennis Smith and partner (I, F9 or F10).

David Kozak, Unaffiliated

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