North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Grand Teton, Enclosure Visionquest Couloir

Publication Year: 1982.

Grand Teton, Enclosure Visionquest Couloir, Tetons. A new route on the Enclosure, branching out to the west from the standard Black Ice Couloir, was pioneered on August 10 by Michael Stern and Stephen Quinlan. The initial 600 feet of the Black Ice was followed to a point near the top of the main icefield below the narrow crux, where they cut off to the right into a smaller couloir almost directly opposite the start of the Great West Chimney. Thirty feet of mixed climbing at the beginning of this couloir provided access to the ice. The first 300 feet consist of a narrow, sinuous 60° ice ribbon leading to a broad ice slope. The next 300 feet, at perhaps 50° to 55°, ascend the left margin of this ice slope, continuing up the couloir to a large chockstone. A final 100 feet of ice at a lower angle took the climbers to the top of the route only 100 feet or so below the Enclosure summit, which was reached by winding around the west and south sides. Once a climber has entered the initial couloir the route is difficult to lose. The improbable nature of the ice ribbon provided an exciting climb, which is slightly more difficult than the now standard Black Ice route to the Upper Saddle. (IV, F8.)