North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Grand Teton, Loki's Tower

Publication Year: 1982.

Grand Teton, Loki’s Tower, Tetons. The northwest corner of the Grand Teton, rising between the north ridge route of 1931 and the northwest chimney route of 1960, provided a new and difficult route with spectacular exposure for Michael Stern and Mark Whiton on August 2. The route is approached from Valhalla Canyon, and starts on the face just to the right of the large, dirty chimney at the right edge of the Grandstand, as it is approached from the west. The route works up toward a fairly prominent shallow dihedral via two moderate pitches followed by a difficult lead involving an F8 hand crack and a shallow inside corner and face (F9). The fourth lead was the crux, consisting of steep and delicate face climbing on very good rock (F9) but with poor protection. From the top of this lead yet another difficult pitch with two F9 overhangs was followed by an easier lead to reach an excellent ledge right on the prow of the northwest corner. From there the route follows a rather obvious line on the prow, or its right side, finally entering the last icy chimney of the northwest chimney route to reach the north face exit ledge system which crosses over to the top of the double chimney of the Owen route. A total of ten pitches were climbed on this fine direct route. The rock is excellent but the lack of good protection on the crux pitch is a substantial hindrance. (IV, F9.)