North America, United States, Utah, Canonlands, Zeus, Sisyphus

Publication Year: 1982.

Canyonlands, Zeus, Sisyphus. In late October, Chip Chace and I free-climbed Zeus, the 300-foot sister spire of Moses. The route follows an old aid line on the southeast side, involving mostly thin cracks. Three 5.11 sections are encountered, well protected except for the first. The continuity of the cracks makes one wonder why Fred Beckey, on the first ascent of the spire, ignored this line and opted for a 200-foot-plus bolt ladder on the once beautiful and featureless north ridge. In keeping with the spire’s name, the free route was dubbed “Sisyphus.”

Jeff Achey, Unaffiliated