South Eagle Beak, Beagle Creeks. Fred Beckey had climbed this dome via the south face, and Fremont Bainbridge, Conrad Van Bruggen and I had done two routes on the northern beak; this was the first route on the wide southwest face. It follows an obvious dihedral that splits the face. Three pitches in the dihedral lead to a belay at a large ledge below a very knobby face. Another pitch up the face ends at a short summit crack. NCCS II, F8.

Simon King, Unaffiliated