American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Northpeak, Deliverance

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Northpeak, Deliverance. In August 1980, Jack Roberts and I climbed this route that ascends the narrow face between the 30° snow couloir and the F8 chimney. Nine pitches led to an unroping spot, a long way from the summit. Loose rock, dubious anchors and tricky route-finding combine to make this route a fairly serious venture. NCCS IV, F9. Thor Peak, Loki. This route ascends the first major crack system right of Rainbow Bridge (A.A.J., 1980). Five pitches of mostly free-climbing lead to a huge ledge. From here, the route climbs a prominent left- leaning, straight-in crack. Three easier pitches lead to the summit ridge. Alan Roberts, Kim Walker and I climbed it in October 1980. NCCS IV, F10, A2. Tuolumne Peak, Giardiasis. Kim Walker and I climbed this route on the southwest face of Tuolumne Peak in June. Rope up just left of the Ashworth-Kinnison route and climb up and left through a dirty black-stained area. Above this, cleaner cracks lead up, then up and right for three more pitches. NCCS II, F10. Echo Peak #9, Northeast Corner. Gary Colliver, Alan Roberts and I climbed this enjoyable route in June. It starts just out of the east side of the notch separating Peaks 8 and 9, following a slightly discontinuous corner system up and right for two pitches, the second being the crux. NCCS I, F8.

Alan Bartlett, Buff Alpine Club

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