American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Wheeler Crest, 1980

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Wheeler Crest, 1980. A number of fine routes were done in this area near Bishop in 1980. In general, climbers were seeking out shorter, harder routes than in years past. The routes are listed south to north. 1. Soaring Eagle Tower, John Birch Society. Climbed by Bill St. Jean and Rick Wheeler, March 1980. To the right of Chicken Delight (A.A.J., 1979) is a series of roofs. This route starts to the right of them and climbs up and right (hence the name) for several pitches, passing some bolts. NCCS II, F9. 2. The Bastard. Climbed in April 1980 by Allen Pietrasanta and Bill St. Jean. Down and to the right of Soaring Eagle Tower is a large formation known as Bedrock Tower. It is the lowest formation in the orange band. This route lies on the tower behind and slightly to the left of Bedrock Tower. Near the left side of the face is a smooth, rounded buttress. Start in cracks on the right side of the buttress, and, when possible, traverse left to reach cracks on the buttress itself. A more direct line seems desirable. NCCS III, F8. 3. Bedrock Tower, Fred Flintstone. Climbed in April 1980 by Tony Puppo and James Wilson. Near the left side of the face is a right-facing book. Right of it are three left-slanting cracks/grooves. This route ascends the left groove and the face above it past two bolts. An easy chimney leads to the top. NCCS II, F10. 4. Bedrock Tower, Barney Rubble. Climbed in April 1980 by Alan Bartlett and Bill St. Jean. This route follows the right of the three grooves to two bolts near its top, then up and left into knobs, then back right across a steep face and up to a stance. Climb up and right past two bolts, then up cracks, finally moving left into the easy chimney of Fred Flintstone. NCCS II, F10. 5. Bedrock Tower, Hanna-Barbara. Climbed in April 1980, by Alan Bartlett and Will Crljenko. To the right of the preceding routes, climb a right-slanting book/trough. From its end, climb up past several bushes to the base of a thin crack. Ascend the crack to a fixed pin, then move left to a knobby area. Easy but unprotected face climbing leads to the top. NCCS II, F9. 6. Bedrock Tower, Yabba-Dabba-Doo. Climbed in April 1980 by Alan Bartlett, Ron Overholtz and Tony Puppo. Near the right side of Bedrock Tower, a large left-facing book starts a pitch off the ground. An easy pitch leads to the book, which is ascended to a roof. Surmount the roof, then follow the smaller left-leaning book above to easier climbing and the top. NCCS II, F10. 7. Little Grey Pinnacle, East Face. Climbed in April 1980 by Alan Bartlett and Bill St. Jean. This is the small tower down and right from Cobblers’ Bench (A.A.J., 1979). It is the last formation in that section of the grey band. Ascend cracks on the prow of the pinnacle, then move up and left past two bolts. A long pitch leads to the base of a chimney, which is followed to the top. NCCS II, F9.

Alan Bartlett, Buff Alpine Club

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