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North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, East McMillan Spire, South Face / East Ridge

East McMillan Spire, South Face/East Ridge. On August 22, Jerry Baillie, Doug Sanders, and I climbed this route on East McMillan Spire. We began at the bottom of a rotten gully about 100 yards east of the standard gully route. This right-slanting gully system was followed on the south face for about 700 feet to a prominent notch in the east ridge. One lead left from the notch put us on a minor rib which we followed on the south face back to the east ridge (F6). Here a difficult move out of a chockstone notch put us on the upper knife-edged portion of the ridge which was followed to the summit (F6). NCCS II F6.

Mark S. Dale, Boeing Alpine Society