American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Elephant Head, Northwest Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Elephant Head, Northwest Ridge. On August 6 James Martin and I climbed this route from our camp on the Dome Glacier. We traversed the upper Dana Glacier and started climbing left of Elephant Head’s steep west face. After several hundred feet of scrambling, we attained the ridge proper. The route finding was straight-forward and the climbing enjoyable. We passed a steep step near the top via cracks on the left (F8). A week later Greg Markov and Skip Edmonds repeated the route, climbing a different crack system on the right side of the step (also F8). NCCS III, F8.

Jim Nelson

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.