American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. After our ski traverse, George Beilstein and I made two climbs. P 7200, a half mile northeast of Gurney Peak, was an excellent 2800-foot-high mixed climb. It took us ten hours to ascend the northeast face. After an easy right-slanting snow ramp, we traversed left onto the face. It was mostly steep snow, some ice with F9, A2 climbing through the largest rock band in the middle of the face. (NCCS IV.) Our second climb was one of the finest I have done. We made a new route and the second ascent of Mount John Bryan by its southeast face, a beautiful 1500-foot granite wall. We first attempted this by an obvious central gully system but ran into really rotten rock. The next day we went back to the face and climbed it in a 20-hour push. (NCCS V, F9.) We started up an unprotected snow slab to an obvious line up the center of the face. On the third pitch we had to do several aid moves to get around a verglased chimney. From there it was F7 to F9 free climbing to the summit.

Scott Woolums

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