American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Russell Attempts, 1980 and 1981

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

Mount Russell Attempts, 1980 and 1981. In May 1980 Dave Pahlke and I attempted the northwest ridge of Mount Russell (11,670 feet). The route was too dangerous and was abandoned at about 9300 feet due to poor ice and constant exposure to avalanches. In April, 1981 we returned with George Ferry and attempted a route on the west face. From a very exposed Camp II at 8800 feet at the base of the northwest ridge the route diagonaled across the west face towards the southwest ridge, joining it at 10,200 feet. We quit at 9800 feet when ice avalanches began crossing the only exit gully. All our pickets were used on the 800-foot rappel and further attempts were not possible.

John R. Dillman

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