American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, P 12,380

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

P 12.380. Harrison Hilbert and I made our first try to climb P 12,380 by its west spur on June 8. We climbed simultaneously except for three belayed pitches on the lower spur. That afternoon we bivouacked in a storm in a crevasse at 11,000 feet without sleeping bags. On the 9th we descended in unchanged weather. On June 14 we started again, reaching our high point by noon. The upper section had 11 pitches of ice or mixed ice and rock. The last four were done in a blizzard. Once again we bivouacked, but this time with sleeping bags at 12,000 feet. The next day the weather started to clear and we got to the summit at 2:30 P.M. We did 13 rappels on the descent, reaching the base at nine P.M. The peak lies just north of Mount Hunter.

Thomas Bauman

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