American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, USSR, Soviet Climbs in the Pamir, 1976

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Soviet Climbs in the Pamir, 1979. Despite generally bad weather in the Pamir in the summer of 1979, a great many remarkable new climbs were made. A Moscow group, V. Neverotin, V. Boshukov, B. Ermakov, V. Putrin and V. Puchkov, from July 21 to 31, 1979 climbed the previously much attempted 6750-foot-high southwest face of the west shoulder of Pik Kommunizma (7482 meters, 24,648 feet) from the Beliaev Glacier. They placed 164 rock and 23 ice pitons. Pik Moskova (6785 meters, 22,260 feet) was climbed by its 8200-foot southeast face from August 12 to 19 by seven Georgians led by O. Khazaradse. A 1000-foot icefall led to a 3500-foot 60° ice slope. Above this rose a steep rock face, the last 1000 feet of which were nearly vertical. They placed 152 rock and 46 ice pitons and five bolts. Ten climbers from Alma Ata, led by E. Ilyinski, climbed the 6250-foot southwest face of Pik Rossiya (6825 meters, 22,392 feet). They were on the face from July 31 to August 9 but had to halt for three days because of a storm. Two new routes were done on Pik Abalakov (6446 meters, 21,149 feet): the 7500-foot north face from July 27 to August 1 by four climbers from Moscow led by W. Kavunenko and the 7350-foot northwest face from July 31 to August 5. The second group placed 206 rock and 14 ice pitons. Three routes were done on Pik Revolution (6974 meters, 22,881 feet). From July 25 to August 4 eight climbers from Leningrad, led by D. Tchunov- kin, climbed the 5250-foot north face. They had to wait out a four-day storm in the upper part of the wall. The 5000-foot northwest face was climbed from July 29 to August 4 by Ukrainians V. Tchrevko, V. Pala- marchuk, M. Masorchuk, V. Foresetian, V. Golovenko and A. Trazevich. From July 28 to August 5 five climbers from Tashkent, led by A. Putizev, climbed the 2400-foot north-northwest face, largely on aid, placing 200 pitons and 14 bolts. In the Darva Range the 6400-foot north face of Pik Arnavad (6083 meters, 19,958 feet) was ascended by five climbers from Tadzhikistan, led by O. Kapitanov, from August 3 to 12. They placed 179 rock and 134 ice pitons. During 15 days at the end of July eight climbers from Kazakhstan, led by W. Sedelnikov, climbed the 5000- foot southeast face of Pik Komakademiya (6439 meters, 22,126 feet). They placed 300 rock and 30 ice pitons and 25 bolts. They were trapped by a storm for six days less than 1000 feet from the summit. The 3300- foot east face of Pik Tadzhikskaya University (6183 meters, 20,286 feet) was climbed by two groups. Five Georgians, led by G. Kartvelishvili, made the ascent from July 21 to August 2 with 253 pitons and 38 bolts. They sat out a five-day storm in slings and hammocks. At the same time Leningraders, led by Solonikov, climbed a route some 500 feet to the left, using 347 pitons and 16 bolts. More details, photos and other climbs are noted in Alpinismus of May 1980 on pages 66 to 68.

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