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Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir, East Peak, Southeast Ridge Attempt

Tirich Mir, East Peak, Southeast Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Murray Foubister, leader, Doug Herchmer, Hamish Mutch, Ian Taylor, and me, and was partially supported by the Alpine Club of Canada. We set up Base Camp (11,750 feet) near the junction of the North and South Barum Glaciers on August 23. Camp One (14,150 feet) was above the lower icefall on the South Barum Glacier and Camp II (15,650 feet) at the base of the upper icefall. En route, at 15,000 feet on the northern side of the glacier, the body referred to in Butson’s account (A.A.J., 1979, p. 313) was found. It seems unidentifiable. Camp III (17,000 feet) was established above the upper icefall on September 1, the route avoiding all but the upper part of the ice by the easy rock buttress to the north. Snowfalls and avalanche hazard accompanied us on the face towards the southeast ridge, which was reached on September 7 (18,675 feet). More threatening weather and route difficulty halted further progress. On our return we climbed a peak which may be Owir VII (c. 17,600 feet) after a snowstorm.

Stephen Bezruchka