AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Lupghar Sar

Lupghar Sar. A Japanese expedition led by Kazuo Ito made the third ascent of this 23,610-foot (7196-meter) peak, climbing the southwest ridge. After approaching from Nagar to the Gharesa Glacier, most of the porters refused to go further and the climbers and four porters carried loads and pitched Base Camp on June 10. They followed the route of the previous German and Japanese ascents. Advance Base was at 17,400 feet. Camps I, II and III were placed at 18,050, 19,850 and 21,000 feet on June 5, 20 and 28 respectively. The first summit try failed 150 feet from the top after a bivouac. Ito and Takehiro Okazaki bivouacked at 22,950 feet and reached the summit of the west peak on August 4. They did not attempt to traverse to the east summit. (See Iwa To Yuki, N° 80, page 106.)