Asia, Pakistan, Momhil Sar Attempt

Publication Year: 1981.

Momhil Sar Attempt. The members of our expedition were José Espona, Raúl Ferrara, Guillermo Fernández and I. We hoped to ascend the unclimbed west buttress of Momhil Sar (7343 meters, 24,092 feet). We traveled up the Gharesa Glacier and turned north up the first tributary, which leads past the west side of Momhil Sar. Base Camp was at 15,100 feet on the glacier, Camp I at 15,750 feet at the foot of the buttress and Camp II at 17,300 feet on the west buttress. We reached a foresummit of 17,725 feet on June 20 after some very difficult, partially vertical ice climbing. We could not continue when Espona fell sick with pneumonia and Fernández froze his feet.

Antonio Luna, Grupo Universitario de Montaña, Córdoba, Spain