American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Yutmaru Sar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Yutmaru Sar. This peak lies west of Kanjut Sar north of the Hispar Glacier. Our party consisted of Yu Watanabe, Shoji Ebara, Masahiro Motegi, Dr. Ryoko Kato and me as leader. Having approached from Nagar, we established Base Camp on the Yutmaru Glacier at 15,250 feet on June 19. We all climbed up the North Yutmaru Glacier to the site of Camp I at 16,900 feet at the foot of the mountain on the 21st. On the way back, Ebara fell into a crevasse and broke a rib. This and bad weather delayed activity. On July 3 we established Camp I. Camp II was at 18,875 feet. On July 5, despite bad weather, we got to the col on the west ridge and placed Camp III at 20,175 feet. On July 17 we crossed the great snowfield and placed Camp IV at 21,325 feet below the north ridge. The first summit attempt on the 18th failed in a snowstorm. It cleared on the 21st and we set out from Camp III for the summit, in spite of having little food. We bivouacked at 22,300 feet. On July 22, I was buried by a snow slide but was uninjured. In the afternoon Watanabe, Motegi and I got to the summit (7330 meters, 23,951 feet).

Tadao Sugimoto, Tokyo Shigaku Club, Japan

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