American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Disteghil Sar East and Yazghil Dome South

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Disteghil Sar East and Yazghil Dome South. A Polish expedition climbed in the Hispar Muztagh. They were Ryszard Kowalewski, leader, Andrzej Bielun, Dr. Jacek Gronczewski, Tadeusz Piotrowski and Jerzy Tillak. Their baggage was lost for two weeks by the airline. The porters demanded three times the 1979 pay and asked for $12 per day; they had drastically to reduce their equipment and took only six porters to help them up the Hispar and Kunyang (Khiang) Glaciers. The porters went only as far as Bularung Alp and so the climbers had to pack alone the last four days to Base Camp. This was established on July 14 on the upper Kunyang Glacier at 14,275 feet. They made a depot at 16,750 feet. On July 21 they set off, bivouacking at 19,000, 20,350, 21,325 and 22,650 feet. On July 25 they ascended unclimbed Yazghil Dome South (7400 meters, 24,279 feet) by its southwest face. Deep snow and miserable weather plagued them, but it cleared as they were on the summit. From the same bivouac, on July 26 they made the first ascent of Disteghil Sar East (7700 meters, 25,263 feet), climbing its 2000-foot high east summit face, the bottom part of which they likened to the north face of the Matterhorn. They got to the summit only at 6:30 P.M. and descended by moonlight. They left Base Camp on July 29.

Józef Nyka, Editor, Taternik, Poland

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