American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Mitre Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Mitre Peak. My wife Marie Jeanne Ghirardini, liaison officer Noveed Rahman and I started on our approach march on April 28 and got to Base Camp on May 26 after two weeks of acclimatization at Hotto and Rdokas. I left Base Camp on May 30 to bivouac alone on the Baltoro Glacier at the foot of the west face of Mitre Peak. On May 31 I climbed the couloir which leads to the crescent ridge and on June 1 ascended the ridge to bivouac 200 feet from the top. I went to the top on June 2 and started the descent, returning on June 4 to Base Camp. I made this solo ascent in bad weather and snow fell on June 1, 2 and 3. The rock was very bad and there was great danger from avalanches and cornices. The ice and snow were 65°. (UIAA V+).

Ivan Ghirardini, Club Alpin Français

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