American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India–Kashmir and Ladakh, Peaks above Durung Drung Glacier, Zanskar Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Peaks above Durung Drung Glacier, Zanskar Range. Our Italian expedition was composed of 14 men and three women. After a day and a half by truck from Kargil to the Pensila Pass, we placed Base Camp on July 30 at 13,900 feet on the 15-mile-long glacier. On August 2 Camp I was established at 15,525 feet on the upper part of the glacier, a mile west of Z3. On August 5 Graziano Ferrari, Stefano Mazzoli and Alberto Fogli placed Camp II at 17,700 feet and on the 8th climbed P 6110* (20,046 feet; 2 miles south of Camp I on the valley’s east ridge). On August 9 Ferrari and Mazzoli climbed P 5930 (19,456 feet; 2 miles west of Camp I on the west ridge). That same day Ricardo Lorenzi, the 18- year-old girl Flavia Masini, Marco Rosa, Angelo Zatti, liaison officer Zagad and I set out from Camp I to establish Camp III at 5330 meters (17,487 feet; 3 miles southwest of Camp I near the head of the glacier). On August 10 we climbed P 5810 (19,062 feet; at the western side of the head of the glacier). On August 12 Ferrari and Ettore Nanni ascended P 5710 (18,734 feet; one mile south of P 5930). On August 13 Lorenzi, Nanni, Zatti and Rosa from Camp II again climbed P 6110. On August 15 Mazzoli and Fogli made the difficult ascent of P 5680 (18,635 feet; 3 miles southwest of Base Camp on the east ridge). We moved back to Base Camp. On August 16 Ferrari, Fabio Bertoncelli, Marco Mairani and Rainer Stechel climbed P 5330 (17,487 feet; ? mile northwest of Z8). They found a cairn on top.

Arturo Bergamaschi, Club Alpino Italiano

* Altitudes determined by aneroid barometer.

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