Asia, India–Kashmir and Ladakh, Bramah I, North-Northeast Ridge

Publication Year: 1981.

Bramah I, North-Northeast Ridge. Our expedition was made up of Christian Galli, Dominique Julien, Roland Stieger and me as leader. We approached Base Camp at 10,500 feet in the Nanth Nala from Kishtwar on September 13 and 16. From September 19 to 23 we established Advanced Base Camp at the foot of the north-northeast ridge at 14,450 feet. On the 26th we moved up steep mixed ground to bivouac at 17,400 feet. We climbed from there to 18,700 feet on the 27th, making slow progress because of deep snow and loose rock. The second bivouac was above the main difficulties. On the 28th we set out shortly after midnight with little equipment. At 9:30 A.M. we decided to stop immediately below the summit because of great avalanche danger. We descended in deep snow to the second bivouac and then made 30 rappels to Advanced Base Camp, arriving at 10:30 P.M. Galli had to leave us on September 15 because of an appendix crisis and had to return to France for an operation.

Emanuel Schmutz, Club Alpin Français