American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India–Himachal Pradesh, Mulkila IV and Koa Rong I, Lahul, 1976

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Mulkila IV and Koa Rong I, Lahul, 1979. A (British) Royal Air Force and Indian Air Force expedition led by Wing Commander N.W. Ridley climbed Mulkila IV (21,380 feet, 6517 meters) and Koa Rong I (20,201 feet, 6157 meters) in September 1979. There were 22 members. Base Camp for Mulkila IV was set up at 14,000 feet at the tongue of the Milag Glacier on August 24, 1979. Camps I and II were established on the 26th and 28th at 16,500 and 18,300 feet. Unusually good weather had melted most of the snow on the south side of the peak, exposing dangerous rotten rock. The first summit attempt failed, but on August 31, 1979 E. Rogers and P.N. Taylor climbed the dangerously loose south ridge. Rogers climbed to the summit while Taylor belayed, 150 feet below. They moved to the Koa Rong valley on September 8 and placed Camp I on the south ridge of Koa Rong I on September 10. On September 14 Rogers, Taylor and R. Francis got to the top.

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