Kamet and Abi Gamin. A 16-man Indian Army expedition was led by Major J.K. Bajaj. They carried no oxygen and used no high-altitude porters. Base Camp was set up at the junction of the Raikana and East Kamet Glaciers at 15,250 feet on May 12. Camps I, II, III and IV were set up at 17,500, 18,500, 20,500 and 22,000 feet on May 18, 21, 25 and. 29 respectively. The route immediately below Camp IV was difficult and 1300 feet of rope were fixed. Camp IV was used by Naik Surjit Singh, Surinder, J.S. Sidhu and Sherpas Ratna and Nima for their climb of Abi Gamin. Camp V was placed on Meade’s Col on May 30. Lieutenant Deepak Kalakoti, CHM S.S. Gill, Naik J.S. Dhinu and Sherpas Sangbu and Pasang set out from Camp V and got to the summit of Kamet (7756 meters, 25,447 feet) on June 1 at about one o’clock. The group from Camp IV arrived within five minutes of the same hour at the summit of Abi Gamin (7355 meters, 24,130 feet).

Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club