American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India–Garhwal, Dunagiri Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Dunagiri Attempt. Austrians Wolfgang Stefan, Peter Pavlag, and Oswald Duba and Swiss Hans Zebrowski left Reni on May 3 and ascended the Rishi Ganga to establish Base Camp near the Ramani Glacier on the 8th. Duba had to return to civilization because of respiratory problems. After a reconnaissance of the northeast side of Dunagiri, on May 15 they established Advanced Base at 16,800 feet below the south face. They placed Camp I on May 17 at 18,800 feet in a col southwest of the peak. From there they traversed a corniced ridge to a col on the southwest ridge, where they camped at 20,600 feet. They continued on May 22 up the ridge to 21,600 feet. They were about to camp there and Zebrowski had unroped. As Pavlag approached, the snow avalanched under him. He pulled Stefan off his belay point. Luckily the rope snagged and they were saved, though Stefan severely injured his hip. He was carried with difficulty to Advanced Base and evacuated from there by helicopter. (More details appear in Indian Mountaineer, Autumn, 1980.)

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