American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India–Garhwal, Panwali Dwar, Southeast Ridge, and Vasuki Parbat, East Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Panwali Dwar, Southeast Ridge, and Vasuki Parbat, East Face. The four-man Japanese Ritsumeikan University party was composed of Keisuke Nakae, leader, Takeshi Kobayashi, Masahiro Nomura and Hiroshi Nomura. We set up Base Camp at 12,000 feet on the Pindari Glacier on May 4, south of Nanda Devi. Camp I was placed on the Buria Glacier at 15,425 feet on May 8 and Camp II on the 17,900-foot col between Bauljuri and Panwali Dwar on May 15. Camp III was established on the ridge at 20,175 feet on May 26 after 3000 feet of rope had been fixed above Camp II. Another 2700 feet of rope were fixed higher. On May 30 Kobayashi and I climbed to the summit (6663 meters, 21,861 feet). On May 31 the two Nomuras also ascended to the top. Kobayashi returned to Japan, but the other three stayed in India to climb Vasuki Parbat in the Gangotri region after the monsoon. We set up Base Camp on September 5 at 15,425 feet. After establishing Advanced Base on the 10th on the east face at 16,750 feet, we fixed rope to 18,700 feet the next day. The three climbers left Advanced Base with gear for seven days on September 12. We bivouacked at 18,500 and 20,675 feet on the east face and at 21,500 feet on the east ridge before reaching both the main summit (6792 meters, 22,283 feet) and the south summit (6750 meters, 22,146 feet) on September 15. We bivouacked twice more on the descent.

Keisuke Nakae, Ritsumeikan University, Japan

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