AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, India–Garhwal, Changabang

Changabang. Andrew Rothfield, Peter Allen, Max Berry, Paul Anderson, Malcolm Noble, John Dunlop, Patrick Miller, Timothy Hughes and I were on Changabang during the post-monsoon period. We spent eight days from Lata, with 20 porters and 70 goats, to reach the northern Nanda Devi Sanctuary. The goats were sent back from Ramani. Base Camp was established on September 10 at the junction of the Changabang and Northern Rishi Glaciers at 14,500 feet. Advanced Base Camp was located on the upper Changabang Glacier at 17,500 feet. We chose a variant of the original Bonington route. From September 25 to 27 Rothfield, Anderson, Allen, Noble and I traversed the Kalanka face utilizing two camps on the face and bivouacking on the northeast ridge of Changabang about 500 feet below the summit. On September 28 Rothfield, Anderson and I reached the summit. The descent was completed in two days and Base Camp was evacuated on October 2. During the return passage down the Rishi Gorge, in the vicinity of Budjara, Timothy Hughes suffered a fatal fall.

Michael Rheinberger, New Zealand Alpine Club, Southern Australian Section