Asia, Nepal, Sisne, North Peak, Kanjiroba Himal

Publication Year: 1981.

Sisne, North Peak, Kanjiroba Himal. A Swiss expedition was composed of Daniel Chevallier, Pierre Galland, Jean-Claude Chautems, André Meillard, André Egger, Dr. Gilbert Villard and me as leader. We took 20 days to travel from Surkhet to Base Camp at 13,300 feet in the Chaudhabise valley, which we reached on April 11. Late snows kept us from placing Base Camp as near to the peak as we wished. We had to establish Camp I at 14,425 feet just short of a 16,275-foot pass to the east and descend to Camp II (Advanced Base) at 13,800 feet in the Changda Khola. The rock of the northwest ridge of Sisne was very rotten. Camps III, IV and V were placed on the ridge at 16,900, 18,575 and 20,050 feet on April 15, 23 and 29 respectively. On May 3 Chevallier and Galland climbed to the north summit of Sisne (6470 meters, 21,227 feet). The ridge to the higher south summit (6620 meters, 21,720 feet) was knife-edged; they felt it could be better climbed from the Jagdula valley. The summit climbers did not attempt to traverse the ridge.

Ruedi Meier, Section de Neuchâtel, Club Alpin Suisse