American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Tilicho, Third Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Tilicho, Third Ascent. On October 10 our eight members left Dumre with six Sherpas and 40 porters and reached Base Camp at Tilitso, a lake at 16,075 feet 14 days later. We fixed some 2250 feet of rope on the mixed climbing above Base Camp. On October 28 we placed Camp I at 20,000 feet at the junction of the north and northeast ridges. From there, on October 30 Martin Braun and Walter Renner reached the summit (7134 meters, 23,405 feet) in six-and-a-half hours. The climbing above the high camp was on firm snow. On the 31st Werner Hein, Hans- ruedi Zurfluh, Giovanni Kappenberger and Sirdar Krishna Rai Tulung also got to the summit.

Guido Bumann, Schweizer Alpen Club

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