Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Attempt

Publication Year: 1981.

Manaslu Attempt. Unfortunately we were unable to climb Manaslu by the normal northeast-face route. We had originally hoped to make the ascent on skis, but the conditions were so bad that only Karl Hub took his skis to 22,300 feet. The members of the expedition were Dr. Hub, Dr. Hermann Kruettner, Dr. Gerald Gruber, Dr. Rolf Widerhofer, Rainer Goeschl, my wife Lilo and I. We had Base Camp at 12,500 feet, Camp I at 16,250 feet, Camp II 650 feet above Naike Col at 19,000 feet and Camp III at 22,300 feet. We had to fix rope as it was very steep between 19,350 and 20,350 feet and again between 23,000 and 24,000 feet. On October 14 Kruettner, Hub, Gruber, Sherpas Ang Zampo, Gyalzen, Phu Tsering and I climbed with all the gear to establish Camp IV, hoping to try the next day for the summit. The wind was so strong that we turned back 100 meters below the plateau at 24,275 feet to avoid frostbitten hands and feet. A large Czech women’s expedition arrived at our Base Camp although their permission was for the south ridge. We were pleased to have them climb along our route in harmony and friendship with us.

Hanns Schell, Österreichischer Alpenklub