American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ganesh Himal V

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Ganesh Himal V. The joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition, of which I was leader, made the first ascent of Ganesh Himal V. The approach march from Kathmandu to Base Camp at 12,450 feet in the Chilime Khola took from March 7 to 20. The route ascended the north ridge. Camps I, II, III and IV were placed at 14,200, 16,175, 19,000 and 21,325 feet on March 26, 31, April 14 and 20 respectively. The first summit climb was made on April 21 by Japanese Tatsumi Sasaki and Akihiko Komori, Nepalese Lhakpa Dorjee and two Sherpas. The second was made on April 22 by Japanese Norimasa Okabe, Kinichi Hamaguchi, Takeshi Shinohara and Saburo Saito, Nepalese Zimba Zangbu and three Sherpas. The Japanese members were all doctors or medical students and so we did high-altitude medical research.

Yoshio Nagao, Jikei University School of Medicine, Japan

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