Baruntse, North Ridge from the West. Baruntse (7220 meters, 23,688 feet) is strikingly situated between the Lhotse-Everest and Makalu massifs. The Eastern Sierra Himalayan Expedition was the third group to attempt the steep icy headwall which leads to the north ridge from the Imja glacier. All five members of the previous two attempts had perished. We had hoped to attempt the easier south ridge but could not get permission from the ministry. Our members were John Fischer, Gordon Wiltsie, Jay Jensen and me. Base Camp was established on September 27, after three weeks of Sherpa climbing courses, which aided acclimatization considerably. We climbed without Sherpa support above an Advanced Base Camp. The face on the right of our route had been swept clean, and the debris nicely filled in a large section of the icefall, providing easy climbing to a large sérac which protected Camp I at 17,725 feet. We then fixed 2500 feet of rope on the headwall over a total period of twelve days. From the bergschrund we ascended a central rib of sugary snow, and about 1000 feet up traversed left underneath the large upper rock band over difficult mixed ground. We eventually found a 60° narrow ice couloir which ended just 150 feet short of the col, but there remained a steep section of loose snow and rock. This was finished in the dark, after a one-day climb from Camp I, and we spent the night in the open at 20,300 feet, just on the other side of the col. A snow cave was made the next day, and from there we went in a single push for the north summit (7060 meters, 23,163 feet) after fixing a short section above the camp. The north ridge was relatively easy terrain averaging 45°, and we made rapid progress. We were forced to turn back while still early in the day, however, because of severe winds and incipient cold injuries. It was not until later that we realized we turned around at 6950 meters, only 100 meters from our goal. The winds did not abate, and we rappelled the headwall, taking our fixed ropes with us.

Peter Hackett, M.D.