South America, Peru—Cordillera Vilcabamba, Salcantay, East Ridge, and Soray Attempt

Publication Year: 1981.

Salcantay, East Ridge, and Soray Attempt. We set up Base Camp at 14,750 feet below Palcay Pass. On June 25 we had to climb down into a crevasse and up the other side. We bivouacked at 17,000 feet on the east ridge of Salcantay. The next day we continued along the beautiful but difficult ridge and bivouacked at 19,350 feet. On June 27 we got to the summit of Salcantay (6271 meters, 20,574 feet) at nine A.M. and reached Base Camp twelve hours later in the moonlight. We moved Base Camp to the western foot of Soray (5917 meters, 19,414 feet). On July 7, after reconnaissance, we climbed the steep west glacier and bivouacked at 16,600 feet on Soray’s west face. But terrible avalanches and rockfall were so dangerous that we had to give it up.

Tomio Shimada, Chokuto Alpine Club, Japan