American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Vilcanota, Chimbaya, Southwest Ridge, Tinki, South Face, and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Chimbaya, Southwest Ridge, Tinki, South Face, and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Martine Arragon, Rainer Bassler, Brigitte Kimmig and me. We went from Tinki to Base Camp at the foot of Caracol with three horses. All of us climbed Campa I (5485 meters, 17,995 feet) on July 14. From July 15 to 17 Bassler and I made a new route on Chimbaya (Cayangate V; 6010 meters, 19,718 feet). On the first day we set up a camp at the foot of the mountain. On the next we ascended the glacier and climbed a 55° ice slope to reach the southwest ridge from the east. We then followed the ridge to the summit and bivouacked right below the top. We descended the southeast ridge. We believe this was the second ascent of the mountain (first climbed by Germans on July 23 and 26, 1966) and the first traverse. On July 19 we all climbed P 5460 (17,914 feet; “Doris”); Bassler and Kimmig continued along the ridge to the northwest toward Mariposa as far as the summit of Huequeiriti (5680 meters, 18,365 feet). On July 21 Bassler and I made a new route on the Nevado Tinki (5450 meters, 17,881 feet), the direct south face, which averaged 60° and was 70° near the top.

Herbert Weinzierle, Deutscher Alpenverein

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