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South America, Peru—Cordillera Vilcanota, Cordillera Vilcanota

Cordillera Vilcanota. Syuzi Tateyama and I climbed Campa I (5480 meters, 17,979 feet) on May 18 after placing Base Camp near Pucacocha. We were turned back by unstable snow on the south face of Tinki. On May 25 we climbed Parcocaya (5290 meters, 17,356 feet), north of Ausangate. From May 20 to June 1 we tried to reach the summit of Jatunhuma (6094 meters, 19,994 feet) and bivouacked on the glacier and on the north ridge. At 6000 meters we had to stop because of crevasses and ice mushrooms.

Tomio Shimada, Chokuto Alpine Club, Japan