South America, Peru—Cordillera Vilcanota, Jatunhuma, Pachanta and Other Peaks
Jatunhuma, Pachanta and Other Peaks. (Editor’s note: With two exceptions (Pachanta and Caracol), the members of this expedition used the names found on the Peruvian IGM quad Ocongate, 1:100,000, Hoja 28-t. The names on these maps rarely conform with the names of mountains used locally or by climbers. Where we have been able to verify them, we have placed the more commonly used names after the Ocongate sheet name.) The members of our group were Jože Havle, Dr. Janez Gorjanc, Milan Savelli, Rok Kolar, Silvester Lupša, Stanko Mihev, Franc Pušnik, Igor Radovic, Zdenko Žagar, Janez Žalig and I as leader. We reached Base Camp at Ticllacocha at 15,750 feet on May 29 and stayed for 21 days. On May 31 Kolar, Mihev, Radovic and Žagar made the first ascent of the east face of Pico Tres (Jatunhuma; 6093 meters, 19,991 feet). From June 1 to 3 Žalig, Lupša and Pušnik traversed the three highest summits of the same peak. On June 6 Radovic, Žagar and Savelli climbed the southwest face of Pachanta (5727 meters, 18,789 feet) and from June 7 to 9 Kolar and Mihev made the first ascent of its very difficult south face. On June 13 Kolar and Žalig climbed the south face of Caracol (5560 meters, 18,242 feet). Other ascents were Yanajaja (Campa II; 5592 meters, 18,346 feet) and Ninaparaco (Jatunhuma III; 5830 meters, 19,128 feet) by all members; Comercocha (5560 meters, 18,242 feet), Huayruro Punco (5500 meters, 18,045 feet), Campana (5400 meters, 17,717 feet), Condor Tuco (5500 meters, 18,045 feet) and Oje Punta (5360 meters, 17,586 feet). These last peaks lie south of Jatunhuma.
Marjan LaCen, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia