American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Huayhuash, Rasac, West Face, Middle Buttress

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Rasac, West Face, Middle Buttress. The Frenchman Antoine Baroud and Hubert Odier and I climbed the west face of Rasac from July 17 to 19. We placed a high camp in the col between Rasac Oeste and Tsacra Chico. There are three buttresses on the face. We climbed the middle one. (Nicolas Jaeger climbed the right one. See A.A.J., 1980, p. 581 and photo on p. 583.—Editor.) From the col we traversed across the glacier to the left (north) and had a difficult time crossing the first band of séracs on brittle ice. From there we followed the buttress. We bivouacked in a bergschrund at 18,000 feet and on the summit ridge at 19,700 feet.

Ralph Esser, Deutscher Alpenverein

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