American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Huayhuash, Rasac Este and Yerupajá Sur

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Rasac Este and Yerupajá Sur. My companion, Bas Grenigt, had had a serious operation because of a bicycle accident just before our departure and had trouble keeping going at high altitude. On June 29 we did climb together Rasac Este by its southeast ridge, but I had to try the huge Yerupajá west face alone. On June 30 I climbed the face to the southwest ridge of Yerupajá Sur but was stopped by a dangerous cornice just below its summit. A second attempt was foiled by a broken crampon. On July 2 Bas’ alarm clock went off at nine P.M., rather than at three A.M. I set off and climbed to the left of my previous route and reached the summit of Yerupajá Sur at one A.M. in a raging storm. We then moved to the Cordillera Blanca. (See that section.)

Ronald Naar, Koninklijke Nederlandsche Alpenvereniging

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