American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Huayhuash, Jirishanca Chico Oeste, Trapecio, Rasac, Cordillera Huayhuash

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Jirishanca Chico Oeste, Trapecio, Rasac, Cordillera Huayhuash. My wife Silvia Metzeltin and I climbed in the Cordillera Huayhuash. On June 19 we climbed Jirishanca Chico Oeste (5270 meters, 17,290 feet) by what we think is a new route, the south ridge from Carhuacocha. This let us avoid the lower glacier in order to reach the ridge between Jirishanca and Jirishanca Chico. On June 25 we climbed the east face of Trapecio (5644 meters, 18,517 feet) from the hamlet of Huayhuash. On July 5 we two left Rasaccocha with the Swiss Hans and Alice Zebrowski and three others and climbed the west face and hanging glacier to reach the north col of Rasac. From there the next day we two, Hans Zebrowski and two others climbed Rasac (6017 meters, 19,741 feet) by its east ridge while Alice Zebrowski and one other climbed the north ridge. On July 15 the Zebrowskis and two others climbed Yerupajá by its west face. The same face had been soloed on July 6 by the Czechoslovak Miroslav Šmid.

Gino Buscaini, Club Alpino Italiano

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