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South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo , Kitaraju

Allpamayo, Kitaraju. Our expedition was composed of Wally Barker, Rick Hanners and me. From Base Camp at the confluence of the Que- bradas Arweiqocha and Santa Cruz, on July 20 Barker and I unsuccessfully attempted Kurikashjana. On July 29 he and I bivouacked on the west col between Allpamayo and Kitaraju and woke at two A.M. under a full moon. The snow at the base of the southwest face of Allpamayo was deep and it was work to get to the bergschrund. Instead of crossing the schrund and proceeding up the Italian route as we had intended, we were disoriented and ended up too far right. We crossed several flutes and continued right until we came to a main channel in midface in which we climbed directly to the summit ridge on superb conditions. We bivouacked on the summit and descended the north ridge. After a resupply in Huaraz, we had six days of bad weather. Peter Millar and Jim O’Neill established themselves at our camp. They left for the west col of Allpamayo on July 15. I followed them the next day. The weather broke and together we made an enjoyable climb of the north face of Kitaraju. Two days later Millar and O’Neill climbed the southwest face of Allpamayo behind two Frenchmen. I watched as the accident occurred. (See below.)

Steve Connolly, Dead Boys Mountaineering and Ammo Club