Huantsán. Our expedition placed Base Camp at Rajucolta Cocha on July 16. We placed Camp I at 16,900 feet on July 19, traversed the peak west of the col at the foot of the northwest ridge of the north peak of Huantsán and established Camp II in the col at 18,200 feet on July 26. On the 29th we placed Camp III just below the top of the north peak. On July 30 Tsugumasa Seki, Nobuyuki Itakura and I made a summit attempt but were turned back by bad weather. After a rest day, Itakura fell ill from mountain sickness and was brought down to Camp II. He became unconscious at midnight of August 2 and had to be carried on a stretcher to Camp I, where he began to recover. Meanwhile, Hidekazu Kudo and Nobuyoshi Chiba had started an attempt on August 2, bivouacked at the foot of the main peak on the 3rd and on the 4th got to within 150 feet of the summit. A third attempt was started on August 6 by Seki and Shigeru Yokota, who got to the summit the next day. We removed the fixed ropes and gear and evacuated Base Camp on August 11.

Yasuyuki Kawashima, Japanese Alpine Club