American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Huantsán from the South

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Huantsán from the South. We tried to climb Huantsaán by the south and southwest ridges. We considered the Italian route to Huantsán Oeste too dangerous and so chose the very long way across Huantsán Sur and Oeste. Base Camp was situated in the Quebrada Rajucolta on July 30 and Camp I on the glacier on August 3. Then we fixed ropes on the ridge. The weather was very bad. On August 17 Stanslaw Walkosz and Jacek Wiltosinski reached Huantsán Sur. They, Bogdan Berlinski and I started from Camp I, climbed Huantsán Sur and after that placed Camp II near the saddle between Huantsán Sur and Huantsán Oeste. The next day, August 19 we made the second ascent of Huantsán Oeste. On August 27 Camp III was established close to the summit of Huantsán Oeste and well stocked. After stormy weather Walkosz and Wiltosinski started across the summit to attempt the west ridge of the main peak of Huantsán. The climb over the saddle on the steep rock-and-ice wall to the ridge was very difficult and the cold east wind forced them to return. No other attempt was realized. We descended from the mountain, cleaning all ropes, etc. Berlinski and Wiltosinski climbed P 5406 (17,737 feet; “Kiso”) on August 1 and I soloed Wamashraju Este (5250 meters, 17,225 feet) on September 2.

Adam Zyzak, Klub Wysokogórski, Katowice, Poland

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