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North America, United States, Colorado, Colorado Climbs

Colorado Climbs. Carl Harrison and Scott Kimball climbed several new routes on Lumpy Ridge early in 1980. On Sundance they climbed a four-pitch route that follows the left-edge of the Dalke-Covington Flake; they named it Jetstream (F9) after its completion in a horrendous windstorm. Also on Sundance is Under the Big Top (F9), which joins Turn- korner at its crux after four pitches; with eight pitches in all, it is the longest route on the cliff. John Long and Lynn Hill, working for Royal Robbins’ new rock school in Telluride, were active in that area over the summer, putting up some 20 new routes, primarily in the Cracked Canyon and the Ophir Wall. Several were real classics; most are F10 or harder. The pair was also active in the Aspen area. With Greg Davis, they climbed Carpet Bagger (F10+), an old aid route on Wall Walls, with hard, overhanging face moves past three bolts. On Turkey Rock they climbed Comes a Time (F11), a 130° roof crack. On Nude Buttress they climbed T.K.O. (F11); Davis had made the first ascent with one point of aid earlier in the summer. In early August Bob Fargo and Jesse Colbert climbed a route (NCCS III, F8) on the north-facing wall between Middle and West Trinity Peaks in the Grenadier Range in southwest Colorado. The climb started near the center of the wall and went slightly right in wide, grassy cracks and grooves toward a slot on the ridge crest formed by opposite-facing dihedrals. They climbed six pitches, the last three being the steepest and most difficult, sometimes with little protection. Chiefshead finally received a second route when Charlie Fowler and John Harlin put up Seven Arrows (NCCS IV, F10) left of the original northwest face route. (See Climbing, Number 64, January- February 1981 for details and for other climbs.) Unreported was the ascent in the fall of 1979 of the north face of McHenry’s Peak by Bill Feiges and Pete Metcalf, a fine mixed climb in a remote setting. Also unreported in 1979 was a new route on Mount Alice (NCCS V, F10, A5). Joe Hladock and Keith Lober took a line to the right of the Culp- Turner route on the 1200-foot east face of Mount Alice. On Longs Peak Jean Ruwitch and Louise Shepard made the first free ascent of the Diamond by an all-woman team, climbing the Grand Traverse. The Diamond saw one more route go free in 1980. Chris Reveley reports that the bottom leads of Curving Vine went free at a “reasonable F10” standard. He and his partner finished up the Pervertical Sanctuary crack, avoiding the standard, somewhat obvious finish freed by Roger Briggs at F11 or F12.

Michael Kennedy