North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Wild Bills' Wall

Publication Year: 1981.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Wild Bills’ Wall. Bill Forrest and I made a new route in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison (NCCS VI, F9, A5). We descended a steep gully south of Cross Fissures Overlook for 1500 feet and scrambled up a gully on the left to gain a tree-covered ledge system which led up and right to a point overlooking the canyon. We fixed orange tape slings at a boulder problem on the ledge. From the high point we continued around the corner and descended the steep treed ramp 800 feet to a giant cave with huge roofs above. The route started on the left wall sixty feet from the cave up a vertical crack which arched up and right after the first pitch. After four short aid pitches, we gained the main crack at a niche. From there we climbed the main crack over a roof and then up less steeply to gain a hidden chimney, which we followed to the summit, exiting on the left. To return we bushwhacked along the crest of the mesa to a position directly across from the Cross Fissures Overlook. We scrambled down 40 feet to a point directly above the col connecting the rock tower with the canyon rim and rappelled a full rope-length to the col. We climbed an F7 pitch and scrambled left across ledges to gain the Overlook.

William March, University of Calgary Outdoor Pursuits