North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Mount Moran, No Escape Buttress

Publication Year: 1981.

Mount Moran, No Escape Buttress. A new ascent (III, F9), which lies to the right (east) of the original 1962 route, was climbed on August 6, 1977 by Mike Munger, Jim Donini, and Steve Wunsch. This climb, No Survivors Route, has six difficult leads past two loose flakes and two roofs, zigzagging up the face. Another route, Direct Finish, of similar difficulty, was made earlier on July 30, 1977 by Munger and Rich Perch. Nine leads were involved in this longer climb, which also required the passage of roofs. Two additional climbs were made in this general area by Dieter Klose and Mike Kehoe. Direct Avoidance was climbed on July 31, 1978 and began 400 feet to the right of the south buttress of No Escape. After two pitches this climb traversed 200 feet back to the left (west). Then a sequence of leads through overhangs took the party to the top of the buttress. Their second climb, Spread- eagle, made the following day, was shorter but more difficult. After a 1500-foot scramble up talus and scree east of Laughing Lions Falls, dihedrals on a prominent nose were reached and climbed. The first two pitches were F10 and the final lead then moved left and up a crack in the face.