Cloudveil Dome, South Face. This prominent face has yielded three new routes. The first, Cut Loose, was climbed on August 2, 1977 by Yvon Chouinard and Rick Black on the right portion of the face. The start was about 30 feet to the right (east) of the chimney forming the right end of the upper of the two parallel crack systems which diagonal up and left across the south face. The first pitch to a large ledge was followed by two leads of crack and face climbing, passing a roof on the left. The fourth lead is the crux of the climb, F10 and consistently difficult for its 140 feet, but the protection is good and the rock is excellent. One may then make a short lead to the right-hand (east) ridge which is followed to the summit, or by angling left stay on the south side of the peak until about 300 feet to the right of the summit. A second and longer route, more nearly directly up the center of the face, was made on August 15, 1978 by Mike Munger and Rick Liu. It begins well left (west) of the right end of the lower of the two parallel diagonal crack systems mentioned above; four leads are required to reach this first system. Three more leads, all F8, brought the party to the upper crack system. The last three leads of this important route extend from the upper system to the vicinity of the summit. A third route, Contemporary Comfort, was climbed on September 2, 1978 by Charlie Fowler and Bill Feiges. This route followed the lower crack system, past one F10 pitch to reach a dihedral leading directly upward instead of continuing diagonally left (west). A total of eight or nine leads were made, including difficult rock above the upper crack system.
Leigh N. Ortenburger