North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Homer's Nose, "Dance of Topo-Usha"

Publication Year: 1981.

Homer’s Nose, “Dance of Topo-Usho”. In August Dave Ohst, John Tuttle and I climbed this exceptional route that ascends the great cleft (chimney) that splits the south face of Homer’s Nose. Start fifty feet right of an obvious water streak—the Black Tongue—and follow flakes diagonally up and right to a ledge running below the huge overhanging bulge. Traverse left on this to a short leaning corner and belay just above on a small sloping shelf (F10). Pitch 2: Follow a thin crack straight up (Al) to a short blank section. Use hooks (A3) to gain the crack above (3-4 inches), and follow this (F9) to a small belay stance on the left (1 bolt). Pitch 3: Traverse left ten feet to another bolt and follow the obvious off-width and chimney above (F9+) to a huge belay ledge. The last pitch is easy and obvious, ending in a large cave near the top. (NCCSIII, F10, A3).

Dick Leversee