North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Northwest Twin Spire, Southeast Face

Publication Year: 1981.

Northwest Twin Spire, Southeast Face. On July 28, Dave Adams and I climbed a new route on Northwest Twin Spire in the Chilliwack’s. From the northwest edge of the 7700-foot col between the northwest and southeast spires we scrambled up a prominent gully 30 feet to a belay ledge. We continued to ascend the loose gully to the left of a prominent gendarme (80 feet, class 5). From the top of this gully we traversed right on a ledge for 40 feet then cut back left for 80 feet to a prominent gully (class 3). -We ascended this gully 300 vertical feet tobelow the northeast ridge. From here we scrambled to the northeast ridge picking up the standard route. Two pitches on the northwest face put us on the summit. We took 6 hours round trip from the col. This is a good route for those interested in also climbing the southeast spire, as the route on the southeast spire starts at the 7700-foot col.

Donald J. Goodman