American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Continental United States, Polish-American Exchange

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981

Polish-American Exchange. It was marvelous for Janna Piatkowska, Zbigniew Mlynarczyk and me to be able to climb in the United States as part of the Polish-American Alpine Club exchange. Our climbing began in New Hampshire with an ascent of the Pinnacle in Huntington Ravine on Mount Washington with Adams Carter on August 31. The next day Doug Madera and Chip Lee made five different routes with us on Cathedral Ledge. Henry Barber climbed with us in the Shawangunks on September 2 and 3, where our climbs included Roseland, Transcontinental Railway, Direttissima and Retribution. We enjoyed climbing from September 11 to 18 in Colorado, where Glenn Porzak took very good care of us. Among the climbs there were Bastille Crack and Ruper in El Dorado Canyon, Jackson’s Wall on Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon, Twin Owls on Tiger Tooth in Estes Park with Antoine Savelle, and the south face of the Petit Grépon with Antoine and Molly Higgins. We stayed about three weeks in the Yosemite, where R.D. Caughron managed our stay magnificently. Zbigniew injured his shoulder and had to quit after a few days there. We climbed the Nut Cracker with Tom Hargis, Braille Book on Higher Cathedral Rock and Little John Right with Allen Steck, the east buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock with Patrick Barthe, Snake Dike on Half Dome with nine (!) people and R.D. Caughron as general, Meatgrinder on Cookie Cliffs with Hargis, the east buttress of El Capitan with Caughron, Steck, Barthe and Hargis, Rixon’s Pinnacle by the Folly and again by the west face. On the fourth pitch of the latter I dislocated my shoulder, the same one I had done on Everest. We were wonderfully looked out for, entertained, accompanied and shown many beautiful places, for which we are truly grateful.

Krzysztof Zurek, Klub Wysokógorski, Zakopane, Poland

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